Use plywood or MDF for the main structure and acrylic or perspex sheet for the smoke.

Roof Ball courts can be made with either a flat top back wall or a pointed back wall as shown above. The diagrams below show the side view of a court with a flat top back wall.

In the photograph this link takes you to an end of the 100cm strip of wood is shown. It is 1 and 1/2 inches deep and 3/4 inch wide. Smaller sizes are not recommended.

The thickness of the perspex should be a minimum of 2mm. Your local supplier can advise you on how to cut it. Better still, get him to cut it for you. In the photographs below a thickness of 3mm is used.

The photograph above shows a court that took just a few hours to make. It's made from scrap - really - and has a flat top back board because the plywood from which it was cut wasn't big enough for a pointed top. It's shown unpainted.

Photographs above show that:

The side and back walls are held together by hinges which have a 180 degrees fold - so that the court can be laid flat for putting away. Note the strip of wood glued to the back board. The back of the roof will rest on it.

The hinge screws went through the plywood and into strips of wood on the other side. The hinges are under the roof on the inside of the court.

Four screws attached the roof on to the front strip of wood.

The top half of a piece of dowel had a slot sawn into it for the smoke. The bottom half was cut into a half cylinder as shown and was glued in place. (Two strips of wood would have done the job just as well)

Photographs above show that:

The front strip of wood must be sanded at an angle to fit the sides of the court when in place. A screw is put at each end as shown.

Ring hooks are attached to the side walls using wooden spacers.

The screws slot into the hooks to keep the roof in place. Don't attach the hooks before holding the roof in place and marking where exactly they should go.

On the inside of each side wall, draw in pencil, the sloping line that the top of the roof must touch and use it as your guide when attaching the ring hooks (See diagram this link takes you to). This can be tricky so take your time and get it right.

Photographs above show that:

The chimney has a slot made in the top to take the smoke. The bottom is cut at the correct angle to stand flush on the roof; and, a small hole is bored into the bottom to take a wooden peg as shown.

Bottom: A small shallow hole is made in the front of the roof exactly half way along. The peg holds the chimney in the right place as shown.

The peg and holes may be replaced by a piece of BluTac if you prefer

Photographs above show the smoke and chimney being put together, and then dismantled ready for storage.

The smoke should be thick enough to hold the chimney upright. 3 mm is adequate

The court can be quickly dismantled and laid flat for storage. Paint it how you wish. We recommend white gloss for the chimney and front strip of wood; and, dark green matt or dark blue matt for the court.

These instructions show you just one easy way to make a roof ball court. Please feel free to make your own any way that you want.

First cut a disc of card just thick enough to fill in the hole of a CD. Sellotape it in place. Take an A4 sheet of coloured paper/cloth and spread over it PVA glue. Put the CD inside it and smooth flat on both sides. Cut off the excess and leave to dry.

Photographs above show the sponge ball and the serving mark.

Cutting the ball from a kitchen scritcher is the hardest part. For practical details see Spinmaster. The diameter should be about 3cm.

After painting the court, a white serving mark should be put on both sides of the roof, mid way between the chimney and front edge of the side wall as shown above.